I woke up to this idea for some reason. I come from having owned an auto body shop twice and doing custom graphics and airbrush work for a decade. One of the biggest expenses in auto body work is abrasive sandpaper. Few people ever take prints to anywhere near the finish quality of automotive paint, but that is another thing entirely.

In optics, metrology, and machine tools, often reference flats are made by rubbing two objects together by various means of lubrication.

Likewise with auto body refinishing, I am always thinking in terms of sanding blocks. Sanding blocks are either bought or custom made. Commercial blocks are usually foam or rubber of various hardnesses. Sandpaper is attached or just wrapped around the sanding block by hand. The purpose of the block is to only sand the high spots without touching the low spots, kinda like a bridge. The flexibility of the block allows it to conform to the broader curves of panels, but its overall length determines the size of depression it will bridge.

This is super important for auto body work where the clear coat reflections will be plainly visible in the end, and depending on the color, will show several types of errors that other categories of finished objects are never subjected to by critique.

So, if you follow thus far, let’s go one level further. The next level of block sanding involves reproducing positive contours that a block cannot bridge. Most jobs can be sculpted freehand, but sometimes this just doesn’t suffice and it still looks wonky. The way to fix this is by making a custom shaped sanding block. Often balsa wood is a good choice for making a custom block by cutting thin boards in a stack of contoured profiles. At least this is how I did it back before 3d printing was a hobby accessible thing, and if I couldn’t use another method. The most common method I used was simply a collection of oddly shaped and contoured objects I kept around for the purpose of sanding.

The purpose of my bla bla bla is to contextualize this overall post idea and abstraction. This is a very advanced and niche concept involving high quality finishes. So let’s combine the ideas.

  1. Like polishes like, or precision abrasion is possible with similar objects and abrasives like with optics.
  2. Sanding is about bridging to abrade the highs without touching the lows, and following contours.
  3. If fiber infused filament is much more abrasive than regular filament, it has potential to abrade a part as a tool.

So my idea here is that there are many potential small run applications where a sanding form could be printed that will shape or finish the final print. There are many possible techniques I can think of for this type of application.

If you have messed with sanding ABS, you may realize it has a somewhat unique texture and feel. It is the primary plastic used in automotive bumper covers and trim parts. The reason why it is used is because ABS has very similar thermal expansion and adhesion properties that make it compatible with automotive paint refinishing systems. It would be my choice for the best plastic to use for this idea of a fiber infused print as a sanding abrasive.

With any type of sanding, special care is required to ensure finer sharp details are retained. Like on an automotive panel, I often turned any sharp transition like a crease or corner into a sharp edge throughout the filler and primer phases. I only shaped these contours at the end, just before the final primer sealer.

With a print, let’s say something like a chess piece, I should be able to print a 2 part shell out of a fiber infused ABS. This should have a small gap that surrounds the final print. Then print an abrasive version of the final product. If these are fastened to something like the sanding surface of a dual action power sander, the two like forms should smooth any layer lines without requiring effort from me. Then once the final part is printed without any fibers infused, is placed inside the shell and the DA sander is run, the extra abrasiveness of the shell should last for a small production run. Adding water into the process like wet sanding would likely speed up the process and make the abrasive shell last longer.

Overall, the complex formed abrasive might enable an unique form of manufacturing process. The potential for automation greatly reduces labor costs in time. Even just as a basic abrasive material, it may be cheaper to print something than it is to use sandpaper in some applications. I have no idea how effective it will be overall. If mostly automated, the time does not matter.

  • 𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆@lemmy.worldOPM
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    19 hours ago

    So the trick to sanding longer with abrasives is wet sanding. In addition, in automotive work, a drop of Palmolive dish soap is added to a bucket of water. This addition makes a huge difference.

    Overall, the principal of like polishes like is important. In abstract, polish is just fine abrasion. Like your finger prints are around 5k-7k grit equivalent. Rub something long enough and you will both polish and abrade it the same as this grit. The oils in your skin are the polishing agent.

    I have played around with 10k grit wet sanding and then machine polishing with a light compound where places I rested my hand showed minor variations after stripping any oils and fillers with wax and grease remover (solvent).

    I can think of several aspects to increase the complexity here. One could add inserts into the outer vibrating shell. These could be any materials.

    I think the bigger issue will actually be the distance between the object and the shell. You see, the size of the random orbital action is the product of two concentric circles. In the pro automotive world, these are pneumatically driven. There are several models available with different properties related to this motion and the internal balance of the mechanism. Within this range of actuation, it is critical that abrasion does not follow a path of repetition. I think this likely means the shell must be larger than the radius of the largest of these two circles or maybe a more complicated size larger than the combination of overlapping radii including their central connection point. This should enable the part to move within the range of random sanding action. That range means the sanding is over a larger area.

    The best shell is likely one with gaps similar to a DA sander with ports for dust collection.

    Very little of any fiber touches the actual nozzle during printing. The actual fiber size used in filament is far far smaller than what most people imagine. It is only the waste dust from the production and processing of carbon fiber. All actual fibers of any useful length are sold in industry for use in composites. There are continuous fiber printers, but that is not at all related to what is used in 3d printing. If you actually look at the data from people testing materials, fiber infused materials are always weaker. They print better because they are breaking up the polymer bonds. Lots of people jump on the buzzword thinking it is technomagic mor betterer but do not pay attention to the details. If the fiber had any length to it, it would clog like crazy because a long bunch of fibers distributed in 1.75mm crammed into 0.4mm is never going to happen. It is just like a dust additive that happens to be available and is compatible. So it should be well distributed throughout. With ABS a wipe of acetone should help too, if left to completely flash off the solvent for a week or more. That needs to be super limited though. Acetone tends to get retained in bad bad ways with ABS. It is a massive no no to use in automotive applications.