My office carry is the Exceed Designs TiRant Razor-M: awesome mechanism and really compact. Really expensive, too…
Here paired with its sibling flashlight EDC:
My office carry is the Exceed Designs TiRant Razor-M: awesome mechanism and really compact. Really expensive, too…
Here paired with its sibling flashlight EDC:
They did :) Even with the preorder complication and the choice of emitter by email, got everything right and fast.
The switch is out of metal, with LED indicator in the middle (blue as the idle color, red or green while charging I think)
That must be it, I wasn’t smart enough to link the actual image URL, I linked the post as you wrote 😆
Interesting tip on linking the url, I will try it. Tested it in the past but I think I did something different and didn’t work as I hoped
Nov-Mu V2 on its way, if a mule, then this I would say! Everyone seems to love this light.
I just ignore the existence of E07x Canon because if I just open its webpage I would end ordering it, too :D Hopefully it can be modded to make the beam pattern work with dedomed 519a - I also like a nice, even beam!
Yeah the output with 4000K could be a letdown, espetially if the tint is greenish. Maybe I’ll change to the FFL emitter, but I really want to try out the 70.3. Maybe it won’t be the right host after all, I would like to drive it with as much current it can take! Does someone have suggestions on the best host for a 70.3 - high output wall of light, good sustain? The Convoy hosts (L6?) look very interesting.
Nice “black and white” collection you have there! Cool to see the two different and very characteristic styles from Hank and FF side by side.
I have a Nov-Mu V2 in fossil grey on the way and the color looks awesome in pictures, with the marbled texture up close. For the X1L I’m debating, but I think I’ll go with matte black for the contrast with the shiny gloss of the stainless steel parts - unfortunately no clip in glossy black, but I will take it out eventually.
I’m glad you report no issues with your lights!
Yes it feels secure. The magnets are very strong and the locking geometry has tight tolerances, so that on the cutting plane there is no movement whatsoever. And even when a side force is applied to the blade tip, the blade moves but remains engaged, because the two magnets in the back keep it in place. The only thing to look for is avoid scraping the blade edge to the inner side of the body - the mechanism is very “fidgety” but using it too much dulls the blade. You can avoid this scraping by pulling the edge away, but you have to purposely think about it. I even imported it to Europe from the US, so to you it will cost surely less than to me ;)