So, I was kind of correct… but also not quite correct enough!

I can handle shitty graphics, it’s the framerates that really mess with me.

I sometimes forget that some games on Switch cap at 30fps. Jumping from a 165hz display running 165fps to a 60hz display running 30fps is… a bit jarring.

What kind of infographic is that? Convection in large bodies of water? I’m not familiar :(

As a teenager, my parents would only let me have a PC if it was situated outside of my room, so naturally, I put my setup in my basement. I was excited to play games in the coolest (temp-wise) room in the house, up until the day a camel cricket decided to jump up my pants and continue to work its way up until I smashed it against myself.

Yuck.

I cast: instant brazilian waxing!

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For the 2nd one, better safe than sorry. You would feel like more of a dumbass if you heard a story in the news about a gas leak fire, or some other form of damage/injury/death.

The mathematician one could easily be turned into benzene and then suddenly it’s also a chemistry pancake!

If 0/0 is NaN, then does that mean 0*NaN = 0*0/0 = 0?

Shouldn’t FF16 also be on this list? Given that FF7 Rebirth will almost definitely see a PC port, I don’t think the ongoing development of an FF16 PC port should exclude it from the list.

I remember chilling in the basement and using the PS2 to listen to music. Of course, I gamed on it plenty, but having the music player and DVD player function was pretty convenient too.

I had to learn emacs for my engineering computation class, up to the point that we were required to present our code in emacs if we had questions to ask during office hours.

I got quite used to it by the end of that course.

For me, green was chemistry, red was biology, purple was physics, and blue was math. Orange would probably be Spanish, and pink or any other colors would be left over for English, social studies, etc.

Then simply change the statement to say for any whole number X

I don’t think there is a “standard” for alice layouts, but you definitely will have to check for key compatability. I found Keychron V8 keycap sizes on their site here, so you should generally look for keycap sets that show you what additional keys are included, such as in this listing and this listing.

You also need to keep in mind the rows (R1, R2, etc.) if you want the profile of each row of keycaps to be consistent. Worst case scenario, you can manually measure the length of each keycap by comparing to 1u keys and known lengths (i.e. standard RShift is 2.75u on ANSI keyboards, LShift is 2.25u, etc.), but that gives you no insight on profile.

Last but not least, I have seen people buy monochromatic keycap sets in a specific profile, such as Cherry profile, and then buying a second smaller set of supplemental keycaps in an accent color (also in Cherry profile). This usually costs more and can lead to mismatched keycaps if not careful or unlucky.

Switch prices can range quite a lot, since there is a decently large enthusiast market for switches. However, I took into consideration that you mentioned you don’t like to buy things you won’t use (the stock switches). I figured it would be better to suggest that you try some switches before you pay for any in bulk.

As for the keycaps, they are not bad. They’re not amazing either, but for what you pay ($15 additional for switches and keycaps) you aren’t gonna beat the price. I just imagine most people are happier having some level of visual customization, and you can’t really see the switches unless you have a keyboard with “floating switches”.

By the way, if you are comfortable keeping the keycaps but swapping out switches, you may also be interested in the Keychron V8. It has somewhat of the ergonomic layout of your current keyboard. It’s only available with blue switches, which are clicky and wouldn’t be appropriate for working.

Sorry that this is getting so long, but one more comment: if you decide to go the barebones route, you will need to make sure you find a keycap set that has 65% compatability. Keys that are frequently missing include the bottom row cluster to the right of the spacebar, and the far right column of keys as well.

It makes sense, it’s basically always 10*x+9.

No, it’s because of the solar panel’s compounding liver dysfunction.

Agreed. Perhaps it was based on tensile stress? Tensile stress = deforming force / cross-sectional area

Keychron’s V2 (65%) might work for you as a good intro. The Barebone Knob option comes without switches and keycaps, so you can test out a few switches ahead of time, perhaps with a keytester set. For keycaps, you are best off just buying a ‘clone’ set from Aliexpress or Amazon, if you’re trying to get decent quality at a cheap price.

In total, I would expect this setup to cost around $110 before shipping costs and tax.