Here’s an archive link for a windows binary: https://archive.org/download/ryujinx-1.1.1403-win_x64

PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off…

That’s PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.

From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.

Lead ain’t that dangerous. Just take it out and dispose of it like you do with normal batteries. Clean your hands afterwards and you’re dandy. As for the clock, the battery contacts, and whatever they were attached to, are likely eaten away, but I can’t say that for certain from this photo. If you’re lucky and they’re mostly intact, some IPA scrubbing and a dip in vinegar, and a bit more scrubbing, should take most of the crust away. That rust though, probably some vinegar, maybe a deoxidating agent (like navy jelly?) could clean it off. Even cleaning all of it doesn’t guarantee that it’ll work any way.

I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.

Dry and then store in a controlled environment. I’m using those bog standard cereal containers from Amazon (3,7-4l container should do for 1kg spools). Add some desiccant, spool rollers and a hygrometer and you have yourself a semi-permanent home for your spools. Mine show somewhere between 10% and 15% humidity, so that’s pretty good considering that previously just leaving a spool in open air for a single longer print caused it to soak enough moisture to ooze and string by the end of the print, and that’s in “only” over 40% humidity. So yeah, highly recommended.

I tried liking KF2 but it just lacks the crispness and the atmosphere of KF1. I also missed the shop lady with her opening shop in the weirdest locations in between rounds. So yeah, KF2 lacks charm IMO and I still like KF1 more even on its aging UE2.5 engine. I don’t think KF3 will find my interest, with all the multiplayer games going “live service” and all.

The model in question has metal screw bosses.

That’s pretty cool. I wish more devices had brass inserts. I kinda hate the idea of screwing into plastic. Anyway, do whatever you feel you need. I don’t think it’d get loose even with daily usage, but I might be wrong.

What does that solve? Isn’t the whole purpose of a threadlocker to keep the screw in place? I can imagine that plastics are soft enough that they keep the screws in place on their own. As far as I know, and from my own experience, there’s been no trouble with screws loosening over time in those consoles, so I don’t know how adding threadlocker would help.

Overtightening screws does that. Plus, transparent plastics tend to be more brittle, so you have to be more careful. Been re-shelling some gameboys and the exact issue cropped up with shells cracking at the screw holes. Guy I follow on youtube recommends screwing them all the way then loosening them a quarter of a turn. Might help lessen the stress.

If you’re running it in docker you can just check the logs, I do it like this: docker compose logs -f lemmy, and see if you have requests from any instance in the log stream. For me it goes pretty fast, but you can always ctrl+c to exit and scroll up to see what you’ve missed. Might not be the most optimal way, but it works for me.

Had to replace my UPS battery just a few days ago after a power outage reminded me that a replacement was well overdue. I share your feeling, now I can sleep knowing a power blip won’t knock out my servers and mess up my data.