Thanks! I’m saving that link, and I’ve also saved your list of when you change patterns for future reference.

That’s a nice service, thanks for the share! However, I couldn’t quickly get an overview of what metadata may be included in a .3mf file, so I won’t upload it for now. Thanks for the offer to look at the file though. :)

Gyroid infill used to be the default in PrusaSlicer, but they changed it to grid when the MK4 came out with input shaping and much higher speeds. Straight lines gain most from the increased acceleration. Gyroid will now make your printer vibrate like crazy.

Good to know - don’t think my neighbors would be all to pleased with additional noise (and not me either).

This is also not cubic infill, that’s another one (which I would recommend over grid for structural pieces). I actually almost always use Adaptive Cubic infill, which saves a lot of filament.

Ah nice, it seems that the adaptive cubic will make larger pockets? Neither cubic nor adaptive cubic seems very… cubic to me, though. Why is it called this?

So far I’ve not been making any structural pieces, but that is something I will remember for when I do.

I also believe that your print would probably had turned out fine in the end, it doesn’t seem like there were any catastrophic failures in your photos, despite the noise.

Hm, OK, maybe - I think however it would have been difficult for me to keep it going when it sounds like I am destroying the printer for every layer

Do you know of a secure and private file drop where I could upload the file? I am not to keen to share anything from a personal account here.

Is there a good way to set it up with a remote?

It’s how I have been running it for the last two years now. Coupled with Jellyfin, it is such a better experience. My mother just got a new TV - I think I will set up something similar for her.

Do you run the files through something like MusicBrainz Picard first? I want to uniformly tag all my music anyway, so I would do that regardless of which media server I used, but it could be doing a poor job if it does not have a MusicBrainz ID associated with it?

Thanks for a very thorough answer!

It’s possible your original Blender design had an issue. Blender is not always kind to 3D printers.

I’ve had good success with previous Blender files, although this is the first time I’ve used a boolean operator to cut out anything. I usually use FreeCAD for these custom Gridfinity pieces, but the process of converting the .stl mesh to a solid part in FreeCAD seems a bit error prone (several steps involved), and I haven’t yet used booleans in FreeCAD. I could try that again.

The first thing I would tell you is to stop using cubic infill, it is evil. It never always causes me failed prints, especially larger prints. Nozzles often tend to drag across the previous layers and can easily cause failed prints. I can even hear the nozzle hitting the infill as I print. I often recommend gyroid as a good all around infill pattern.

Good to know! I use PrusaSlicer, and this grid infill is the default. The way you describe it sounds like what I experience, and I can in fact see some artifacts when I inspect it closely. Though, the sounds I hear would only start when the concave part starts, and that’s also where I see the failures. But that could possibly because there’s too much overhang over the cubic infill? Anyway, I checked out gyroid pattern, and it was pretty dense with the 15% default infill value. What type of infill % do you typically use? Seems I could get away with less here.

I look at it and I wonder, does the rolling pin need to be supported full length? A wooden rolling pin is ridged and only needs minimal support on the ends. So I might just design the cradle only at the very ends. And then design the middle to be a simple flat that connects the two end pieces. I might even skip the middle altogether and just print the ends. That saves the most material and time and still does the job perfectly.

You mean an open container with maximum depth and width between the ends that holds the ridges? That could be a good way. They way I ended up doing it was essentially just a rectangular cut-out which worked fine and is similar to your suggestion (although I could save more material doing it your way), but feels less custom… as if that is a goal in itself. I would not like the gap by just printing the ends though, as I wouldn’t be able to squeeze anything else underneath and it would not look right to me. Wish I didn’t think like that, so I could save material, but I know myself enough that I would be annoyed every time I opened the drawer…

When it comes to slicing your print, orientation matters. How you support overhangs can be tricky and often compromises must be made. While I will use the auto supports as often as I can, sometimes you just need to use paint on supports to get what you needwhere you need it. Pay attention to the top zed support gap. The defaults are never right. I always open them up more. With a .40mm nozzle, I use a .265mm gap. For a .60mm nozzle, a .365mm gap. You might even need to print your parts at an angle. Often tipping the part at 30 to 45 degree angle can make those nasty over hangs completely printable without supports. And this is only a good beginning. How fast you might print an overhang matters, the amount of cooling fan can affect the over hang, lots of fine details that you will learn about as you keep doing this.

This I will need to read up on more. I don’t actually use supports for these Gridfinity prints (but PrusaSlicer does warn me about potential instability…). The printer handles the overhang between the grids fairly well, but I guess I didn’t think about the long lines crossing the infill. In other prints I’ve only used the auto supports. Could I ask you what slicer you use?

Good Luck and never fear making a mistake!

Thanks! I must admit I do fear it sometimes when the printer makes some weird noises…

That is also my experience. People are certainly opinionated which could be interpreted as hostility in some cases, but most people are willing to share and help when someone less knowledgable have gotten stuck with something.

What kind of issues are you experiencing with Jellyfin? It has worked perfectly for me, but I see the sentiment repeated many times so I guess it’s not that uncommon to experience issues. I run it via Docker, mount volumes like I do with other media types, and add properly tagged music in an Artist/Album directory hierarchy. No special tweaking.

You could look up 3Blue1Brown’s explainers on YouTube, they are pretty good and shows a lot of visual examples. He has a lot of other videos on other areas of math.

You can export your data from Spotify, and use that as a basis for downloading songs via for example yt-dlp (this can be automated), or slowly build it up again over time in whatever system you set up by buying the albums/compilations containing the songs.

I find the non-fiction stuff he writes good (e.g. The Internet Con, Chokepoint Capitalism). I believe this book is like that?

I found his fiction, based on the one book (The Lost Cause) I read, to be a bit juvenile in style (as in feels like a young adults kind of book) to the point I didn’t quite enjoy it, although the topics are interesting enough.

You can run Android apps on a Linux phone via Waydroid, but banking apps could be an issue if they force these Google intrgrity checks. Grindr probably does not?

Anyway, you should be able to fire up Waydroid on your Linux desktop and test this beforehand. I have never done this myself, so I might have misunderstood something.

you need certificates on iOS which suck

I can still sideload whatever I want

??

If I were you, I’d make sure to tackle one thing at the time, and set aside some time to figure it out, where the goal is not to for instance play games, but set up a game for play later. That way you can focus on the first part, instead of trying to rush that. So for example, when you are trying to set up Home Assistant, spend time just getting Docker to work first. I’ve fallen into that trap many times before, where I ended up not reading the messages properly because I was impatient and just wanted to get to the end fast. Once you get more familiar with Linux, this stuff gets quicker because more of the steps involved with any task is familiar to you already, and the troubleshooting threads you find on different forums are less Greek.

For specifics:

1. For Docker, when you feel ready to try that again, I’d recommend setting it up together with a GUI, like Portainer. If you follow the official guides to install Docker and then Portainer, you should have a web UI accessible that makes dealing with containers easier. I generally like doing things in the command line, but for containers, I prefer to have a GUI.

2. When it comes to Home Assistant, I’d honestly go for either Home Assistant Green or Yellow from Nabu Casa (you’d support the Open Home Foundation directly this way). If you want to set it up yourself, I’d go the route of a dedicated single board computer, like a Raspberry Pi, and use Home Assistant OS. I tried to set it up as a container as well before, but there are certain limitations you avoid by just running their OS directly on dedicated hardware. It’s been running smoothly for me since I set it up on my Raspberry Pi 4.

3. It is good to learn about Wine and Bottles, but I’d start out with Steam (and Proton), Heroic and Lutris. I’ve had much headaches getting stuff to run properly on Heroic and Lutris, but I think the trick here is to avoid Flatpaks for these sorts of things, because there are many dependencies, and you are dependent on a good permissions setup for Flatpaks. Your mileage may vary though, I’m sure there are plenty of people with painless experiences with Flatpaks here.

I got a reply from someone who had got it working under Wine before, so I will go ahead and order it. I will check if the drag and drop-approach works then as well, which would be preferable for any custom tracks. I’ll update on what I find out when I get the pedal!

And thanks for the link to the community, I will definitely follow that one. I fear this can become a very expensive hobby, I have gone from 0 to 3 in a short time, and I find myself wanting ones that I currently don’t have the skills to make proper use of…

What does Jellyfin have to do with that? If you implement acess control in the reverse proxy, requests from non-whitelisted IPs are just not forwarded to Jellyfin.

I have mine behind a revwrse proxy (Nginx Proxy Manager), and use a whitelist to allow specific IPs or IP ranges access so my family can use it.

30-40 billion USD in total worldwide over three years seems very little compared to the massive expenditures by the AI companies to build the things?